“The composition (Écorce Verte) is adorned with a lively green bouquet with citrus zest and fresh herbs, highlighted by a sparkling note of Calabrian bergamot. The scent evokes a gentle walk in the forest, the grass is freshly cut, the leaves twirl in the wind, the smell of green tea rises delicately and is adorned with a woody facet in the background…The composition (Murmuration) is adorned with white flowers & honeysuckle exhaling an elegant vegetal sillage. A murmuration is formed by hundreds of thousands of birds in flight, gathering and performing fascinating choreographies. Bird whispers are one of the most dazzling collective manifestations in the natural world.”
HOUSE: La Grange du Parfumeur
FRAGRANCE: Écorce Verte, Murmuration
NOSE: Alexandra Bachand
RELEASED: 2017, 2021
SIZE/COST: 30ml / $110 (other sizes available)
Écorce Verte (87%): Green and fresh, from the bittersweet bergamot to the fruity tea notes, this is a confection. It actually reminds me somewhat of these German hard sweeties I had in my childhood (my mom worked for an affiliate of Lufthansa airlines). Once the sweet pop begins to clear, about ten to fifteen minutes on your skin, a nice small shift takes place, and the air has muted the candy coated side for a more variegated green scale and something of a warm pasture. The vetiver used here develops on its own time, making way for an airy symphony, of earthy fields with a gauzy glow. One hundred percent gender neutral, this perfume, once in the heart, is a true beauty. Even though there is no mention of lemongrass or balm, it has that buttery softened gloss about it. Perfect for Spring and Summertime. For those who may be put off by a sticky sweet lemony fragrance (I’m with y’all), don’t be alarmed, literally just after the initial blast this becomes a puffy chiffon cloud, quite dreamy. And from there it’s all a bit of a stable woody tea scent that caresses the edgeless sky.
Notes: bergamot, green apple, green tea, vetiver, atlas cedar
Murmuration (83%): The latest release from the house is heady – as conceptually as it is enriched with enduring white floral essences. In general, if you have been reading this past year – not my favorite note set – however, this has a very contemporary staging. The green aspects emanate from the resinous galbanum, which in this case helps create an almost currant-like accord alongside a rather intriguing honeysuckle and melon. I haven’t explored the juicy fruity orb much in perfume though I’m sure it’s out there, and it’s certainly ripe for the season. This too is fruity and sweet, casting a long trail. Something fermented or reed-like seems to be lurking between and below the florals here, its kind of earthy, musty, dewy. I definitively get the melon rind which was a very quirky and nice surprise, pulling away from the petal poetry. I seek distractions from a floral heavy perfume, and found it here. The only other perfumer who has made something close to this is perhaps the now sadly defunct SP Parfums out of Germany. This is innovative and new and those who enjoy white florals will definitely find something of the highest quality in this one. Keep in mind, both are quite surprisingly EDTs here, which is a feat in and of itself as this projects quite vividly.
Notes: galbanum, honeydew melon, white flowers, honeysuckle, benzoin
Hercynia by ISHQ (2020)