This is the finale in our short series with our friends from smallflower.com/Merz Apothecary. This time around our exploration into the German slash USA-based designer house Anat Fritz and it’s a pleasure to experience their two focal fragrances for the very first time. Both of these are re-formulations of their originals. Anat Fritz is a designer from Berlin with an insatiable obsession for proportion and timeless chic. “Ever since I was a child I had the urge to make my own ‘things’. Knitwear, accessories, perfume. Why? Because I am always on the search for the perfect thing – and if I cannot find what I am looking for, I just simply go and design what I envision. I hope that on this website you can enter my little world and find yourself a gem that you cannot find anywhere else. Something that gives you joy, comfort, confidence and a good sense of self….” Well, here are our collaborative thoughts:
Classical Ltd Ed (2020, 88%):The blast of lavender here is a bit more activated than the usual sedative variety – likely thanks to the dry, bitterness of the citrus rind and skins used here. This reminds me of fruit trees after the rain, the leathery skins glistening with their waxy tough exterior and beads of water droplets. The lavender plays the central role, still, even when a milky honeyed amber attempts breaking through. It conjures drying flax, or canvas – somehow….Oddly enough this also harkens to the residue of sweat after a athletic sensual encounter. Or is that coconut? For sure, it is unique and very distinguished, to say the least. Oh, I’d rather chalk it up to imagination, and now that you mention it, I get an accord as dry as chalk, yet with the most exquisite penmanship. This is like a quirky drama unfolding, maybe a ‘black comedy’? Did you ever see the film ‘Eating Raoul’? Hmmmmm, this perfume is so amusing, it will keep you guessing.
Dana of Merz Apothecary says: “For me this perfume is classical childhood-grandfather’s woody green cologne, camping in the upper Midwestern forests, a cedar chest in the attic (or if you’re from Chicago, the basement), herbs in the backyard or pots on the window sill….fresh and green but also can be deep and a bit dirty, Classical is everything i want in an earthy fragrance: grounding in vetiver, relaxing in lavendar, warm in Sandalwood…you get the drift. Still sophisticated, never too “hippie” (not always a bad thing), very pleasant and easy to wear anywhere. I love both of the Anat Fritz fragrances, as I said before, these rank among my top top choices out of everything I’ve ever sniffed.”
Notes: Bergamot, Petitgrain, Lavender, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Amber
Tzora Ltd Ed (2020, 96%): An incredibly multilayered presentation here. From the first plume I’m getting strands of citrus like fleeting DNA, and most definitely an herbaceous flow with a small bouquet off to the side. I should never listen to ‘krautrock’ while experiencing a perfume, but that is exactly how this opens, just like our suggested soundtrack today. There’s a peppery spice courting woodsy incense that is unabashedly, gorgeously jaw-drop-worthy. Yes, this could easily become a signature fragrance for me, and this small size will not suffice beyond this paragraph let alone the Summer, for which I think this would be divine among people for the first time in eighteen months! Mind you, we are just slowly warming into the heart of this artful work and blossoming is a suede-like earthy flair that steals my undivided attention. The only warning I can muster at this point is, if you try this, be ready to embrace a full-on seduction of the senses. There are vague hints of effervescence and evergreen – and with that, its musk trail fades like one of those dreams you don’t want to wake from.
Grace Ann of Merz Apothecary says: “Where to start? Tzora is such a unique and exciting scent. It’s both classic and modern, elegant and adventurous, and timeless but new. This fragrance blends together all the components of a classic chypre in a new and modern way. Oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli wind together through the base of this scent making a grounded solid foundation. The stand out for me is the osmanthus blossom. This floral is a particular favorite of mine, taking on green, warm and sweet notes all at once. This fragrance is truly a celebration of the versatility of all the ingredients included, creating a scent that can be enjoyed by anyone.”
Notes: Clary Sage, Cool Basil, Bergamot, Thyme, Lemon, Grapefruit, Sweet Orange, Tangerine, Vetiver, Jasmine, Tuberose, Black Pepper, Cypress, Brut Champagne accord, Neroli, Rosewood, Patchouli, Cedarwood, Amber, Guaiacwood Oil, Velvet Musk, Tobacco, Russian Leather, Oakmoss accord, Frankincense
Tangerine Dream – Stratosphere (1976, Virgin)
- All of these fragrances (and a whole lot more) are available at Smallflower.com