Mad et Len Quad

“We believe that each one of our differences can make a difference. We believe that perfume transcends our emotions, which is why we need to carefully choose the right paths. We use Raw materials to create formulas with very few ingredients to echo our desire for simplicity. Time flies, we are « A la recherche du temps perdu »”


HOUSE: Mad et Len
ORIGIN: France
FRAGRANCE: Apocalypstick, Blackmusk, Paname, Terre Noire
NOSE: Alexandre Piffaut
CONCENTRATION: EDP
SIZE/COST: 50ml / $165
SPECIAL THANKS: Impossible-Color.com
GET YOURS: ZGO Perfumery (San Francisco)

Apocalypstick (2018): A dry and almost fruited sweet rose perfume, this consumes the air with a certain smolder. The fleurs have this breathy camphorous lift. The blushing rose is realistic, bright and atypical, grounded by the fairest amount of earthiness that puts it into place in a spectacular, well coiffed French garden full of herbal delights as well. The combination almost feels as though it has a tinge of black currant bud (it doesn’t) and this will provide for one heck of a sonic sillage. For me, as its title may hint, this is a tad lipstick-y if you are so inclined, although if this is how the end of civilization smells, I’d say ‘everything’s coming up roses’ (w/an Ethel Merman snarl, of course). (82%)

Notes: Asphalt, Rose damascena, Moss, Violet, Soil, Oak, Eucalyptus, Cypress, Mint

Blackmusk (2016): This is a fully embraced, yummy as all get out, ambery musk that permeates my every sensibility. I’m shamelessly charmed by this whispering fragrance, taken to a chamber of iniquity and left for the wild things. I was expecting something much darker, but that is where this black musk tricks you into its tender provocations. Fully gender-neutral this would work on your body as a gentle personal spray to center your thoughts, and as well it is a bit of a seducer for gentle(wo)man callers everywhere…..It dips a toe into the soft pool of the lightest of florals, in so doing it’s enchanting musk grows in coloration and temptation. This could be suited for good or bad boys/girls any/everywhere – depending on mood and intention. It’s really that versatile. But you will have to appreciate the finer nuances to understand its innuendo. (93%)

Notes: Musk, florals, wood bark, amber

Paname (2010): The great outdoors, a rural perspective, enhanced for modern city dwellers. This smells dewy and humid to me, with a nearby stack of hay bales and a sprawling countryside. This is embraced, yet with a twist of spice that takes it out of the barn and into the club, or day spa, or maybe to an aerobics class? This has a soft leathery appeal without smelling like a cowhide tannery, more like a rather large sitting room in a fancy mansion with sconces and an armored knight statue. Though keep in mind this is very much of the now even after circulating for over a decade, so quite forward-thinking if I might say in terms of the development of perfume signatures that are just surfacing nowadays. A sophisticated blend that would be best worn by a stylish outdoor type who can be ready for adventure at a moment’s notice. For me, this has a rather linear dissipation after the breach of the heart, and after an exciting opening. (83%)

Notes: Tobacco, Hay, Grass, Spicy notes, Suede

Terre Noire (2017): And lastly, a perfume that is incredibly complex and yet assuring somehow. This is the most outdoorsy of this profiled selection. I get an aromatic charge of earthen rootedness, the spin of evergreens permeating the air with an electrifying aura. Mind you, the balsamic quality being palpable still leaves way for the stimulating wood nymphs to veer off the beaten path. Yes, this is (or should be) one of the house’s signature works. It has all the trappings that go into the making of a timeless classic. This has its multi-layered shade, but through the darkness seethes gaps of light, and that’s what makes this so fascinating to my passages. It has a musky base that lingers like a trail made by a nocturnal creature, but is more a ghost imprint as it doesn’t come off animalic, it just echoes as if it were, if that makes any sense. If you are a hiker or biker or have dabbled in botanical tinctures, you are getting half the story – so try this to complete the picture! (92%)

Notes: Soil tincture, spicy notes, pine, woody notes

Recommended Soundtrack:
various recordings by BJ Nilsen


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